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Santiago

Santiago     Santiago City Tour    

To see an itinerary that starts from, or includes, one of the places mentioned above, just click on the name.

What follows below is a brief introduction to Santiago, the capital city of Chile. Scroll down or Click on the section below to get directly to the information.

Location & Climate

Surrounded by the Andes mountains to the east and the coastal mountains to the west, Santiago sits in a bowl at an altitude of 543mts in the downtown area rising up to 800mts in the eastern up-market suburbs. One of the positive aspects to Santiago is the favourable Mediterranean climate (average summer day time temperature is 30°C), with long, hot and usually cloudless summers running November to March. The summer is also a period of little smog. Rain, when it comes, is usually in June, July and August, meaning snow in the mountains and therefore skiing. One of the negative aspects is smog in the winter, which is a major problem during the months of June, July and August.

Santiago is the capital of Chile (Santiago de Chile) and today it is a modern, bustling city that surprises newly arriving visitors who are expecting a "typical run-down Latin America city". Santiago is the fifth largest city in South America, home to over 5 million people and the central base for 50% of the county's manufacturing industry. M ost of the business activity and areas of interest for visitors covers a linear zone that runs East from the downtown Santiago suburb ("comuna") into the suburbs of Providencia, Las Condes, Vitacura and Lo Barnechea (La Dehesa). The further East and higher you go from downtown Santiago the more affluent the area.

Places of Interest for the Visitor

The city offers the visitor many entertainment options and some interesting historical sites. It can be divided into five principal areas for the visitor: Downtown , offering a chance to see historical buildings and museums; Bellavista, a bohemian district between downtown and main Providencia that comes alive at night and is full of interesting bars and restaurants; Providencia, a redeveloped suburb that is full of bars and nightclubs the recently re-developed areas within Las Condes and Vitacura that boast numerous modern, tall office and apartment blocks, good restaurants, modern supermarkets, well surfaced roads and state of the art underground car parking.

There is an impressively modern, clean and safe metro system that runs three lines. The principal line, Line 1, runs through the middle of the Downtown area and all the way east passing through Providencia and terminating in Las Condes. For the visitor, the metro Line 1 should be all you need in order to get around. Alternatively, taxis are plentiful and relatively inexpensive.

Be Sensible
Santiago is a relatively safe city, however, if you are a foreigner and are off your guard you could be a target for a thief.
Be sensible and do not walk around with a big camera around your neck, a bulging wallet that can be seen and watch where you put your coat and bag in open-air restaurants.

Brief History of Santiago and Chile

Much has been written about political unrest, dictatorships and poverty in South America, and Chile is no exception. What follows is a very brief, chronological breakdown of the most important events that have led to the creation of the Chile we know of today. You will see that many of the causes that led to social inequality are sill present in societies all over the world today.

1500's The Spanish, who conquered practically all of the Americas had its colonial power base in the region in Lima, Peru. Chile was then a backwater - not particularly important but a place yet to explore.

1536 Diego de Almagro led an expedition, on horse back, from Peru into Chile but did not get anywhere near to the future site of Santiago because the journey was fraught with difficulty.

1541 Pedro de Valdivia led another expedition from Peru but managed to get to where Santiago is today. Valdivia "founded" Santiago at the foot of the hill called "Huelen" by the indigenous natives but which was renamed "Santa Lucia" by Valdivia. He set up a local form of government and set about mining for gold in areas that were rumoured to have had gold when the Incas were here, but Valdivia and his men were under constant attacks from native indians who were fighting the "invaders". Valdivia and his men set about building an infrastructure for the then, new village. They constructed the fort and aptly named it the "Plaza de Armas" (Armed Plaza) as well as a handful of other buildings only to have them destroyed a few months later by the rebellious, native Mapuche indians.
Naturally the new settlers set about rebuilding and stuck to within the limits of the natural boundaries of the Mapocho River at the northern perimeter and Santa Lucia hill at the eastern perimeter. Urban development continued to grow for the next decade and began to resemble a Colonial settlement of importance. However, the "Conquistadores" were here in search of mineral wealth and therefore "followed their noses" south to the area of Arauco, deserting Santiago which become more a of staging post.

In 1553 a violent backlash from the southern Mapuche Indians forced the Spanish invaders to retreat back to Santiago, reigniting growth in the Santiago settlement. Over the next hundred years or so, life was difficult, trade was controlled strictly by the Spain Crown and frequent earth quakes and floods from the raging Mopocho river dealt regular heavy blows to many of the simply-constructed dwellings.

1586 Construction on the "Iglesia de San Francisco" began and continued over a 44 year period until 1628. Chile was governed as part of the Viceroyalty of Peru from Lima and enforced trade with Spain to pass via Lima, strictly forbidding "Chile" to trade directly with any other country, which led to uncontrolled smuggling.
The Spanish Crown gives and divides agricultural land and large houses between the leading families. With large swathes of land being owned by few people, including the Jesuit church, a new class of people grew to be known as "inquilinos". The inquilinos were only given permission by the land owners to farm on if they worked for the land owner.
Early economic demand focused on livestock as horses, leather and grease were needed to supply the mines in Bolivia and constant war against the Mapuche indians.

In 1687, massive earthquake destroyed wheat crop in Peru, allowing the superior quality Chilean wheat crop to ill supply to the workers in Mines in Peru. Throughout the 18th century, wheat prices set the value of land in Central Chile.

In 1740, direct trade with Spain WAS permitted and in 1750 Chile was allowed to mint its OWN currency.

By 1760 it was accepted that tenants should provide a son or daughter to the landlord for household duties. By the end of the 18th century, after 250 years of colonial rule, Santiago had virtually been destroyed, once by native indians and twice by massive earthquakes. Population circa 50,000 people.

Independence and Political Unrest
In 1808 the French, under Napoleon, successfully invaded Spain resulting in confusion among the Spanish colonies as to where their allegiance lay, this in turn weakened Spanish military control leading to the beginning of independence movement in 1810 with the formation of a local, military "junta". This "junta", along with patriots loyal to "Chile" fought many battles against troops loyal to the Spanish crown.

There were two key men who played a vital role in bringing independence to Chile. One was Bernardo O'Higgins, born in Chillan (southern Chile) in 1778, the illegitimate son of an Irishman, Ambrose O'Higgins, who rose up through the Spanish colonial ranks to become Governor of Chile and Viceroy of Peru. Bernardo was sent to London to be educated and during his time there he met with a number of exiles who were plotting to overthrow the Spanish rulers. After his father died he returned to Chile in 1802, inherited his fathers estate and took his surname. O'Higgins led his own army of men to take on the Spanish Royalists but after one serious defeat he retreated over the Andes to Mendoza, in Argentina where he met up and joined forces with Jose San Martin de Los Andes, who had been planning to enter Chile and overthrow the Spanish too. Following a major battle in 1818 at Rancagua (just south of Santiago), which O'Higgins and Jose San Martin won, O'Higgins was asked to be the "Supreme Director" of the newly independent Chile.

Independence was officially claimed in February 1818 with Bernardo O'Higgins as head of the first Chilean government.

After independence, 277 years after Pedro de Valdivia first arrived, Santiago began its journey to become a serious urban base. In 1822 Valparaiso was declared a free port, which enabled it to became an important financial centre and principal thoroughfare for business connected to nitrate mining in the north and cattle ranching in southern Patagonia.
Over 30 canals were constructed in the central valley to provide much needed irrigation.

1851, the first vineyards began to appear.

1900, the first significant fruit harvest is reaped. Santiago is booming from mining and agriculture. New constructions go up and areas are gentrified (Santa Lucia Park) but the vast majority of the population lived as servants.

In the early 1900's with riches generated from the mining of nitrate in the north, people were in town to make money and live well. Large houses and mansions were built. The State commissioned the construction of a new Congress building and Municipal Theatre. It was the newly-arriving Europeans who set the pace as they set about recreating the kind of city they were used to, leaving the poorer natives and mix-raced peoples to fill in where they could, many flocking to Santiago in search of a better life, but often living in simple shacks and treated as second-rate citizens.

As the city entered the 20th century it expanded eastwards, towards the magnificent Andes mountains, creating new "barrio altos" (literally meaning
higher settlements in terms of new wealth and altitude). Many large farming properties (haciendas), a result of land being handed down the family line from the days of the Spanish conquerors, are broken down into smaller holdings and agricultural workers leave the land to find more affluent work in the nitrate mines.
Santiago population grows from 300,000 to 600,000 people.
Telephone lines go up. The Panamerican highway is constructed north and south from the capital.
Hydro electricity provides energy. World War II provides a boost to the economy.

In 1920 the nitrate mining industry collapses, which leads to 1920 great depression, which leads to social tension and unrest.

In 1952 the population reaches over 1 million.

1970 still too many poor people and too few land owners. Pressure on to reform the land ownership problem (too few land owners with vast swathes of land and too many poor people with nothing).

On September 4, 1970, Salvador Allende, a Marxist, headed a coalition of socialist parties and was democratically elected president with a slim majority. One half of the country were happy but the other half was very concerned that the country would become a communist state like Cuba. Allende had good intentions to help the poor, but unfortunately his government programs resulted in severe economic chaos and people demanded change. The country enters an economic meltdown.

In 1973 a military coup, led by General Augusto Pinochet, seizes power. Pinochet implements free market economic practices under policies drawn up by economic whiz-kinds from the University of Chicago. Over the period that followed, the economy went boom to bust followed by a prolonged period of economic growth.
Pinochet maintained power for seventeen years until October 5 1988 when a plebiscite was held to see if the people wanted a continuation of military rule or free elections. By a slim majority (55% to 45%) the people voted for an election, so on December 14, 1989, the left-of centre-politician, Patricio Alywin, was elected as Chile's new president and military rule ended.

Since 1989, when democracy returned to Chile after 17 years of military rule, rapid economic growth has resulted in a massive construction boom and the redevelopment of sectors of the city into a modern-day metropolis. Yet, despite all this, the "Plaza de Armas" is still there, and still the symbolic centre of the city.

Santiago Map

source: turistel (An excellent Chilean travel guide)
Note: To enlarge map place mouse above it and click.

Principal Places of Interest

Downtown

Day Time

Museo de Arte Precolombino
Metro Stop: Universidad de Chile (northern exit).
Bandera 361 corner with Compania, Downtown.

Closed Monday. Tue to Fri 10:00hrs to 18:00hrs. Sat, Sun and Holidays
10:00hrs to 14:00hrs.
One of the best museums in South America that chronicles over 4,000 years of pre-Columbian
civilization.

Iglesia de San Francisco
Metro Stop: Universidad de Chile (southern exit).
Constructed between 1586 and 1628 (44 years), this is the OLDEST building in Santiago having survived three major earthquakes. The small carved Virgin
del Socorro on the main alter, was brought to Chile by Pedro de Valdivia, on his saddle, in 1541.

Museo Colonial de San Francisco
Alameda 834, Downtown.
Metro Line 1: Universidad de Chile, southern exit.
Located along the side of the San Francisco church (dating back to 1618 having survived all the earthquakes, entrance is by the church). Colonial building displaying numerous artefacts and an attractive central garden.

Bario Paris-Londres (Historic Area)
Metro Line 1: Universidad de Chile, southern exit.
A small, historic area located behind, but close to the San Francisco church. Narrow streets and interesting architecture.

Palacio de la Moneda (The Money Palace or Royal Mint) (Presidential Palace)
Metro Line 1: La Moneda.
Located between streets Morande and Teatinos in the centre of Downtown.

Built between 1784 and 1805 (21 years) under the supervision of Italian architect Joaquin Toesca, the low-lying, Neoclassical, symmetrical building
was the Royal Mint. However, after forty years it was used as the residential palace for Chilean presidents starting with Manuel Bulnes in
1848 and ending with Carlos Ibanez in 1958 when it stopped being the residential address of the president BUT continued to be the official seat of government from where the president works.

On September 4, 1970, Salvador Allende, a Marxist, headed a coalition of socialist parties and was democratically elected president with a slim majority. One half of the country were happy but the other half was very concerned that the country would become a communist state like Cuba. Allende had good intentions to help the poor, but unfortunately his government programs resulted in severe economic chaos and people demanded change. On 11 September 1973, the military moved in and General Augusto Pinochet, who was head of the army was head of the Junta and declared himself president.

On that fateful day, air force jets swooped down and bombed the palace.

Pinochet maintained power for seventeen years until October 5 1988 when a plebiscite was held to see if the people wanted a continuation of military rule or free elections. By a slim majority (55% to 45%) the people voted for an election, so on December 14, 1989, the left-of centre-politician, Patricio Alywin, was elected as Chile's new president and military rule ended.

Recently renovated, the Palace interior courtyards are open to the public during the day.

La Plaza de Armas
Metro Line 5: Plaza de Armas
The OFFICIAL centre of Santiago and CHILE. This where the national road distances are measured from. The first public space laid out by Pedro de
Valdivia in 1541 when he constructed a fort, hence the name Plaza de Armas (Plaza of Arms). It is in this area where people used to congregate and come to market. A number of important buildings such as the Cathedral, Governor's Palace and the Law Courts were built close the plaza.

Correo Central (Central Post Office)
One of the historic buildings built beside the Plaza de Armas. Built in 1882 on the foundations of what was previously the Governor's residence which later became the Presidential Palace, during the colonial period.

Museo Historico Nacional (National History Museum)
Also beside the Plaza de Armas and next to the "Correo Central", built by the Spanish Crown between 1804 and 1807 as a court house, however, after just three years the first military junta met here in 1810 to plan the
overthrow of the Spanish Governor. Eight years later it was used as the first Congress building and then became the seat of government until 1846 when
President Bulnes moved it to La Moneda.

Cathedral
Located beside the "Plaza de Armas", on the corner close to the "Correo Central". Built in 1785, with Italian influence in its design from the Italian architect Joaquin Toesca who also designed La Moneda Palace. It is the FIFTH church to be on this site as the previous buildings were demolished by native indians or earthquakes (1552, 1647 and 1730).

Mercado Central (Central Food Market & Restaurants)
I. Valdes Vergara 900, Downtown.
Metro Line 2: Cal y Canto
The building was constructed between 1868 and 1872 with sections pre-fabricated in England, designed by Fermin Vivaceta for the purpose of exhibiting works of art but it quickly became used as a market. Today the market is still active and it is an interesting place to eat. A number of restaurants that specialize in fish dishes surround the principal hall where one can eat and admire the fish, meat and vegetables on display amid the flurry of market activity.

Museo de Bellas Artes
Parque Forestal, Downtown.
Metro Line 1: Santa Lucia, northern exit.
Santiago's fine arts museum, displaying permanent collections of French, Italian, Dutch and Chilean paintings and often hosting very interesting visiting exhibits.

Museo Arqueologico de Santiago
Lastarria 321, Downtown.
Metro Line 1: Universidad Catolica.
Set amid an historical small neighbourhood, with interesting cafes and art galleries, this museum offers a number of exhibits from the indigenous peoples of Chile.

Cerro Santa Lucia
Metro Line 1: Santa Lucia.
History tells us that THIS is the spot where Pedro de Valdivia officially founded the new settlement of "Santiago de la Nueva Extremadura" (named after his birth town in Spain) on February 12, 1541, some 463 years ago! At that time the region was populated by native Mapuche Indians, scattered around the valleys and hills of the Central Valley.

When Valdivia arrived, Santa Lucia hill was barren and rocky yet to-day it is covered in lush vegetation and has beautiful gardens in which to walk. It was mostly ignored until 1872 when Vicuna Mackenna (the intendente, or mayor) oversaw the construction of new streets and turned Santa Lucia into a terraced garden for "the people" with the help of over 150 prisoners.

Teatro Municipal
Agustinas corner with San Antonio, Downtown.
Metro Line 1: Santa Lucia.
Opera and Ballet March to December. Tel: 633 2549.

Palacio Cousino (Colonial Home)
Dieciocho 438, Downtown.
Taxi needed or a good walk from Metro Line 1: Los Heroes.
An elaborate 19th-century mansion dating back to 1871. Built by the Cousino family from wealth accumulated from coal and silver mining. Well preserved images from an elite life. Open: Tues - Sun: 09:30hrs - 12:30hrs. 14:30hrs -16:00hrs. Tel: 698 5063

Providencia

Night Life

Barrio Bellavista
Nearest Metro: Baquedano
Located on the other side of the Mapocho river a short walk from Baquedano metro station and at the foot of the San Cristobal hill. Known primarily as the Bohemian district, Bellavista (Beautiful View) comes to life at night and offers the visitor numerous restaurants and bars to dine and drink at.

Suecia and General Holley
Nearest Metro Los Leones.
Located in the heart of Providencia. An area of bars with live music and some restaurants.

Providencia

Day Time

Museo Neruda La Chascona
Nearest Metro: Baquedano
One of the houses where Chilean Nobel Prize-winning poet Pablo Neruda once lived. Located in a short street just off the main Pio Nono road. Tel: 737 8712 for tours (closed on Monday).

Cerro San Cristobal
The hill on top of which is a statue of the Virgin Mary. Access is from metro stop Baquedano, on foot to the end of the street Pio-Nono which runs through Barrio Bellavista and then up to the funicular railway (Mon 13:00hrs to 20:30hrs; Tue to Sun 10:30hrs to 20:00hrs) or to the northern end of the street Pedro de Valdivia and onto the teleferic cable car (Mon to Fri 14:30hrs to 20:00hrs;Sat, Sun and Public Holidays 10:30hrs to 20:00hrs).

The highest point is at 880 mts. The Virgin Mary statue, seen from almost every point in the city was sculptured by Frenchman Jaconetti out of metal and given to Chile by France in 1908. The entire hill or cerro comprises the Parque Metropolitana, covering 712 hectares which makes it one of the largest parks in the world. Getting to the top will enable the visitor to enjoy a panoramic view over Santiago and incredible unspoilt views of the Andes on one side and the Precordillera Mountains on the other. There are restaurants and cafes at the top as well as two swimming pools. Cyclists and hikers as well as those who like the funicular railway or teleferic cable car enjoy the park to its full. One suggestion is to go up on the funicular railway and down on the teleferic cable car.

Shopping and Restaurants
Metro: Pedro de Valdivia and Los Leones
Specifically around the streets Suecia and General Holley (north exit Los Leones metro) are numerous bars and restaurants. Los Leones, south exit will lead you into a principal department store and close by are other shops and a mall.

Las Condes

Day Time

Shopping
Two modern shopping malls dominate Las Condes and these are Parque Arauco and Alto Las Condes. Both are spacious, clean and new, offering the visitor plenty of choice and well known brand products. Both are located along Avda.
Kennedy and are know by all taxi drivers.

Artesanal Shopping
There are three good places to buy typical Chilean handy craft products and these are Los Dominicos, Vitacura and Apumanque. Los Dominicos is located behind a church of the same name and offers the visitor a chance to wander around a colonial setting whilst looking at what to buy. Vitacura, located along the street called Vitacura and Apumanque, located behind the shopping mall called Apumanque offer great products from a number of stores.

Las Condes

Night Life

Barrio El Golf
Metro: Tobalaba or El Golf north exits
Up-market business and commercial zone, host to numerous good restaurants and bars along the El Bosque Norte and Isidora Goyenechea streets.

Vitacura

Night Life

Avenida Vitacura runs near to the Mapocho river and is home to many new restaurants. Another good spot is Borde Rio, located on Monsenor Escriva de Balaguer 6,400, beside the Mapocho river. Great place for evening drinks and meals during the summer.

Transport

Buses are driven by maniac drivers but are cheap and will get you to most places.
Taxis vary between the good level with good driver to less-than-reliable with questionable drivers.
The metro is excellent, clean, reliable and cheap.

Inter-city public transport is usually very good. For long journeys the buses offer executive class comfort and on-board services.

Santiago Prinicipal Intercity Bus Stations are:
For North & South: Terminal de Buses Santiago, Metro Universidad de Santiago (Southern Exit).
For Vina del Mar/Valparaiso: Terminal de Buses Alameda, Metro Universidad de Santiago (Southern Exit).
For North & South: Terminal de Buses San Borja, Metro Estacion Central (Southern Exit).